More
than a city, Chennai is a potpourri of impressions: a fistful of
colour, a whiff of jasmine, the rustling of silk. It brings to mind
the subtle, intricate variations of classical music, the evocative
grace of Bharatanatyam and a spontaneity of bronzed Dravidian faces.
Stray images chase one another: bold colour drawn into the pleats of
the Kancheepuram sari; a neat, swaying, ebony plait crowned with a
spray of flowers; complicated and exuberant sculpture lacing temple
walls. Chennai is the first city of the sough and a gateway to the
sunny temple towns of southern India.
Four centuries ago, Chennai was still Madrasapatnam,
an anonymous fishing village dotting the Coromandel Coast. Never a
pivot of any mighty local kingdom, it was part of a region that was
ruled by the greatest dynasties of the south: the Cholas and the
Pallavas. Chennai splendid heritage of temples, its pristine Hindu
culture which has found such rich expression in fine arts and crafts
all owed to these great civilization. Modern Chennai bears its
ancient lineage with pride, poise and dignity.
Over this bed rock of a
strong cultural and spiritual identity. Chennai unique personality
as a flourishing commercial city which began when the British
arrived, has been superimposed on the surrounding region, now called
the state of Tamil Nadu. Madrasapatnam provided the first firm
foothold for a burgeoning alien empire, a launching pad for the
Englishmen’s struggle for India. The small fishing hamlet of
Madrasapatnam was chosen as a settlement primarily because of easy
availability of cheap long cloth. Here, the English founded the
first English school and India’s first Municipal Corporation and
many other significant firsts including the Indian Army.
By 1680, the English had consecrated St. Mary’s
Church- the first English church in India. Around this complex and
at the northern end of Marina beach, grew fort St. George, a shelter
that world survive for 300 years. Hear, Robert Clive’s marriage to
Margaret Maskalyne was celebrated with great festivity in 1753. The
only settlements that developed around the forest were the local
colonies of Madrasapatnam and Chennapatnam, and it was these that
burst their cordons to become a large and teeming township, the city
of south Chennai.
Chennai is a broad open city, and the longest
thoroughfare in the city. Anna Salai, formerly the Mount Road, is
its busy commercial center. Fort St. George, built by the British
East India Company in 1640, was a stronghold of British power in the
region and has changed hands between the British and French many a
time. Robert Clive, the English clerk who manipulated to the carve
out a niche for the Empire, once worked in this building. The fort
now houses government offices. St Mary’s Church within the fort is
believed to be the oldest Anglican Church in the east. It was
consecrated in 1680. American visitors would be particularly
interested to know the Elihu Yale, who later endowed the Yale
Univeresity in the U.S.A., was married in the church. Yale worked as
a lerk with the British East India Company and rose to be the
governor of Chennai. The Fort Museum, a treasure house of history, is
worth a visit for its collection of armour, costumers, coins and
medal, of the East India Company in that region.
The Gandhi Mandapam, 7.2 km from the center of the
city, organizes prayer meetings regularly. The high court buildings
put up in 1861 are of interest for their Indo-Saracenic
architecture. The Kapaleewarar Temple, at Mylapore, is an ancient
Shiva temple built in typical Dravidian style. The parthasarathy
Temple at Triplicane, is dedicated to Lord Krishna as royal
charioteer of Arjuna, one of the Pandava brothers in the Mahabharata
war. The temple was built by a Pallava king in the 8th
century and was subsequently renovated many times by a succession of
Vijayanagar kings. The Anna’s Square, at the northern end of the
Marina Beach, is the memorial to a beloved leader of the state.
The San Thoms Basilica, is named after St Thomas
the Apostle who was buried there. St. Thomas came to the shores
barely a few years after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ in 52 A.D.
The present cathedral building was consecrated in 1896 at the place
where an old chapel existed. The Church of the Madonna of the Mount,
on a hill top, is famous for its bleeding cross which said to bleed
on December 18th every year, the day St Thomas died.
There is a painting of the Madonna here, which is said to have been
painted by St. Luke, one of the twelve Apostles.
The Marina Beach, 3.2 km long, is spell binding and
is the second longest beach in the world. There is an aquarium and a
light house nearby besides the government museum, the National Art
Gallery, the College of Arts and Crafts, one can also visit the
Snake Park at Guindy and the Theosophical Society established by Dr.
Annie Basant. The library of the society has many ancient
manuscripts.