More than a city, Madras is a potpourri of impressions: a
fistful of colour, a whiff of jasmine, the rustling of silk. It brings to mind
the subtle, intricate variations of classical music, the evocative grace of
Bharatanatyam and a spontaneity of bronzed Dravidian faces. Stray images chase
one another: bold colour drawn into the pleats of the Kancheepuram sari; a
neat, swaying, ebony plait crowned with a spray of flowers; complicated and
exuberant sculpture lacing temple walls. Madras is the first city of the sough
and a gateway to the sunny temple towns of southern India.
Four centuries ago, Madras was still Madrasapatnam, an anonymous fishing village dotting the
Coromandel Coast. Never a pivot of any mighty local kingdom, it was part of a
region that was ruled by the greatest dynasties of the south: the Cholas and the
Pallavas. Madrass splendid heritage of temples, its pristine Hindu culture
which has found such rich expression in fine arts and crafts all owed to these
great civilization. Modern Madras bears its ancient lineage with pride, poise
and dignity.
Over this bed rock of a strong cultural and spiritual identity. Madrass unique personality
as a flourishing commercial city which began when the British arrived, has been
superimposed on the surrounding region, now called the state of Tamil Nadu.
Madrasapatnam provided the first firm foothold for a burgeoning alien empire, a
launching pad for the Englishmens struggle for India. The small fishing hamlet
of Madrasapatnam was chosen as a settlement primarily because of easy
availability of cheap long cloth. Here, the English founded the first English
school and Indias first Municipal Corporation and many other significant
firsts including the Indian Army.
By 1680, the English had consecrated St. Marys Church- the first English church in India. Around
this complex and at the northern end of Marina beach, grew fort St. George, a
shelter that world survive for 300 years. Hear, Robert Clives marriage to
Margaret Maskalyne was celebrated with great festivity in 1753. The only
settlements that developed around the forest were the local colonies of
Madrasapatnam and Chennapatnam, and it was these that burst their cordons to
become a large and teeming township, the city of south Madras.
Madras is a broad
open city, and the longest thoroughfare in the city. Anna Salai, formerly the
Mount Road, is its busy commercial center. Fort St. George, built by the British
East India Company in 1640, was a stronghold of British power in the region and
has changed hands between the British and French many a time. Robert Clive, the
English clerk who manipulated to the carve out a niche for the Empire, once
worked in this building. The fort now houses government offices. St Marys
Church within the fort is believed to be the oldest Anglican Church in the
east. It was consecrated in 1680. American visitors would be particularly
interested to know the Elihu Yale, who later endowed the Yale Univeresity in
the U.S.A., was married in the church. Yale worked as a lerk with the British
East India Company and rose to be the governor of Madras. The Fort Museum, a
treasure house of history, is worth a visit for its collection of armour,
costumers, coins and medal, of the East India Company in that region.
The Gandhi Mandapam, 7.2 km from the center of the city, organizes prayer meetings
regularly. The high court buildings put up in 1861 are of interest for their
Indo-Saracenic architecture. The Kapaleewarar Temple, at Mylapore, is an ancient
Shiva temple built in typical Dravidian style. The parthasarathy Temple at
Triplicane, is dedicated to Lord Krishna as royal charioteer of Arjuna, one of
the Pandava brothers in the Mahabharata war. The temple was built by a Pallava
king in the 8th century and was subsequently renovated many times by
a succession of Vijayanagar kings. The Annas Square, at the northern end of
the Marina Beach, is the memorial to a beloved leader of the state.
The San Thoms Basilica, is named after St Thomas the Apostle who was buried there. St. Thomas
came to the shores barely a few years after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ in
52 A.D. The present cathedral building was consecrated in 1896 at the place
where an old chapel existed. The Church of the Madonna of the Mount, on a hill
top, is famous for its bleeding cross which said to bleed on December 18th
every year, the day St Thomas died. There is a painting of the Madonna here,
which is said to have been painted by
St. Luke, one of the twelve Apostles.
The Marina Beach, 3.2 km long, is spell binding and
is the second longest beach in the world. There is an aquarium and a
light house nearby besides the government museum, the National Art Gallery, the College of
Arts and Crafts, one can also visit the Snake Park at Guindy and
the Theosophical Society established by Dr. Annie Basant. The
library of the society has many ancient manuscripts.